New Shanghai

Dim sum for the masses, pork-free & available 10am-10pm at a strategic venue.

Trays of savory delicacies, baked or fried, are kept warm and regularly replenished for shoppers seeking speedy takeaways at Pavilion.

Nevertheless, for maximum satisfaction, select what you want and take a table here to slowly relish everything from flavorsome puffs to fluffy pancakes.

It's an eye-popping smorgasbord of traditional favorites: sweet potato biscuits, shrimp & bean curd rolls, pan-fried lotus root puffs, yam & radish cakes, Teochew sesame balls, Shanghai pancakes & so much more _ sufficient to feed the proverbial small army.

New Shanghai's offerings are well-executed; light on grease & salt but still nicely seasoned & engagingly tasty. Crisp and flaky, with moist, juicy stuffing.

Prices are fair; most of this ready-to-eat fare costs RM2.80 a pop.

A bit more expensive: steamed varieties, made to order, so you'll have to wait.

Who needs pork when there's pumpkin paste in these searing-hot dumplings? Truthfully though, the food here might be better with pork, but for what it is, we can't complain.

The most extravagant item: prawn dumplings topped with "caviar," RM8.80 for two pieces.

Lotus leaf-wrapped glutinous rice, stickily laden with tender chicken, mushrooms & salted egg.

Save space for dessert, particularly these "cotton cakes," as creamy as mousse.

Are you ready for this jelly? A wobbly herbal concoction, refreshingly chilled.

Mango cream puff & egg tart. Scared of sugar? Rest assured, none of these are very sweet.

Tea for three: New Shanghai offers no fewer than 15 varieties; this one is a blend of Tie Guan Yin & Ma Lau Mit, supplying a peachy fragrance.

New Shanghai,

Lot 1.02.00, Pavilion, Kuala Lumpur.